.. |clearer| raw:: html
.. |br| raw:: html
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White Plungers
**************
All the images on this page are thumbnails. Click to get higher resolution images.
.. image:: _images/White_plungers_glide_surface_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plungers_glide_surface.jpg
White plunger with the glide surface highlighted.
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.. image:: _images/Zoom_in_on_Glide_Surface_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Zoom_in_on_Glide_Surface.jpg
This is a zoom in on the end view of a corner of a plunger. The glide
surfaces represent about 20% of the thickness of the plastic in the
corners.
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*The glide surface is described in detail here, as it is the key to my repair strategy*
The glide surface is about 0.004" (0.1 mm) thick, and 0.060" (1.5 mm)
wide, and extend the length of the plunger. As the glide surface is on
both sides of each corner, there are 8 of them. The glide surfaces can
slide against the side of the well in the black plastic housing, but the
total width of the plunger including the glide surfaces is less that the
size of the well by about 0.008" (0.2 mm). There is no apparent wear on
the glide surfaces. On each side of the plunger, the area between the
glide surfaces is effectively recessed and never touches the wall of the
well in the black plastic housing. The width of the plunger including
the glide surfaces is 0.325" (8.25 mm). The width of the plungers from a
recessed surface to the recessed surface on the opposite side is 0.317"
(8.05 mm).
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.. image:: _images/White_plungers_retaining_tabs_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plungers_retaining_tabs.jpg
White plunger with retaining tabs highlighted. These retain tabs stop
the plunger from coming out of the keyboard under normal circumstances.
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Repairing the White Plungers with glue (Failure)
================================================
I tried multiple glues to try and repair the cracks in the plungers,
including all five Epoxy adhesives and two Cyanoacrylate adhesives
listed on this page :ref:`materials`. All failed to provide structural
improvement to the plungers and hold the cracks closed, once the key
cap was inserted into the plunger.
HiTek Plungers repair Overview
==============================
The strategy for the the following White HiTek Plungers (as found in the
HP-85 Keyboards) all use the same strategy:
- Removing the glide surfaces on the damaged plungers. This provides
some space for some type of supporting material to close the cracks in
the plunger and inhibit any new cracks.
- Apply some supporting material around the outside of the plunger. The
supporting material, including adhesives has a maximum thickness of
0.004" (0.1 mm). This is the thickness of the removed glide surfaces.
- The supporting material must not affect the sliding behavior of the
plunger. It should have a height that exceeds the exposed part of the
plunger, so that the bottom edge of the support material is always
within the well of the black plastic housing. Otherwise it might catch
the top lip of the well.
Machining the Plunger Corners (Failure)
=======================================
My first attempt to remove the glide surfaces was to make a fixture to
hold the damaged plungers in a milling machine, and then remove the
glide surface by milling.
.. image:: _images/Custom_fixture_for_plunger_milling_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Custom_fixture_for_plunger_milling.jpg
The fixture comprised a 3 sided support for the plunger, an insert that
could be inserted at the top end of the plunger so that it would not
collapse while being held in the fixture, and another flat piece of
aluminum that supported the fourth side of the plunger.
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.. image:: _images/Plunger_before_milling_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Plunger_before_milling.jpg
This shows the plunger and the fixture assembled in a vice, ready for
the glide surfaces to be removed.
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.. image:: _images/Plunger_after_milling_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Plunger_after_milling.jpg
Unfortunately the plunger material is not very strong. Due to the crack
in the plastic, the damaged area is bent outward, so when the milling
cutter is used to remove the glide surface, the results are
unpredictable, and often removed too much material. Also the material
flexes during cutting and because the cutting tool (end mill) is
designed to pull the cut material (chips) up, it tends to pull the
plunger material up while cutting. This also means too much material is
removed.
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Trimming the Plunger Corners (Success)
======================================
The following process is very tedious, but gave good results, so this
is what I did for all of the white plungers I repaired.
As described above, the aim is to remove the glide surfaces (8 of them
per white plunger) to make room for supporting material. While more
material can be removed (in the axial direction, not the depth
direction), I chose to remove about 0.300" to 0.330" of the glide
surface on all 4 sides of the plunger (8 glide surfaces). So what needs
to be removed is 8 times 0.300" by 0.060" of plastic. The result is that
for 0.300 of the plunger at key cap end the glide surface areas have
been cut down to be flush with was the recessed area. I used a
:ref:`Swann Morton Scalpel Handle number 3` with :ref:`Swann Morton
Number 11 Scalpel Blades`. I probably replaced the blade every 5 to 10
plungers.
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.. image:: _images/Plunger_prior_to_trimming_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Plunger_prior_to_trimming.jpg
To support the walls of the plunger and to be able to hold it better, I
used the Aluminum insert from the failed machining attempt described
above. The insert has a square cross section measuring 0.268" from side
to side. You will note that it is much wider at the end, and this proved
to be a good safety stop when the scalpel slipped during the trimming
operation, protecting my finger that was pressing on the end. I have
highlighted the areas to be trimmed in black.
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.. image:: _images/Plunger_after_trimming_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Plunger_after_trimming.jpg
After trimming, the top 0.300" of the plunger is the all at the same level of the recessed area.
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.. image:: _images/Shavings_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Shavings.jpg
These are the shavings cut with the scalpel. It took about 2 minutes to
trim these two glide surfaces. (after lots of practice)
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Material #1: Copper foil (Failure)
==================================
Thin Copper foil with adhesive backing is readily available in various
widths and is used for electrical shielding and also in making artistic
stained glass panels. With adhesive it is about 0.003" thick.
.. image:: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_1_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_1.jpg
I wrapped a single layer of foil around the plunger in the prepared
area, starting at the corner that is opposite the corner with the crack.
This means the middle of the tape is across the crack and the maximum
length of adhesive tape is to either side. This is not possible with
plungers with 2 adjacent cracks or 2 opposite cracks.
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.. image:: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_2_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_2.jpg
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.. image:: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_3_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_3.jpg
This plunger has 2 cracks and if you look carefully, there is only 1 side worth of tape from a crack to the end of the tape.
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.. image:: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_4_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_4.jpg
.. image:: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_5_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: right
:target: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_5.jpg
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.. image:: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_6_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Copper_foil_experiment_6.jpg
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I tried several times to make this work. They all failed with the tape
splitting as soon as the key cap was inserted into the top of the
plunger.
Material #2: Kapton tape (Failure)
==================================
Kapton tape with adhesive backing is another common electrical assembly
material known for tolerating high temperatures and being unaffected by
almost all chemicals. While it was much stronger than the previous
experiment with copper foil, it still failed. In this case the failure
is that after installing back into the black plastic body of the
keyboard, over time the adhesive slowly sheared allowing the crack to
re-open.
.. image:: _images/Kapton_repair_attempt_B_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Kapton_repair_attempt_B.jpg
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Material #3: Melted Nylon (Failure)
===================================
This attempt does not require the removal of the glide surfaces. The
idea for this repair was to melt some additional Nylon into the area of
the crack and hold the sides of the plunger appropriately as the melted
material solidifies. Unfortunately, I was doing the heating with a fine
tip soldering iron and even the lowest temperature setting was burning
the Nylon. Maybe with a lower temp tool, this technique might have
worked, but I didn't have such a tool, and I moved on to my next
experiment.
.. image:: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_A_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_A.jpg
.. image:: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_B_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: center
:target: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_B.jpg
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.. image:: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_C_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_C.jpg
.. image:: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_D_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: center
:target: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_D.jpg
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.. image:: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_E_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_with_melted_Nylon_E.jpg
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Material #4: Glide Dental Floss (success)
=========================================
This process appears to be successful, but I don't have any long term data
to support this hope. After the previous failures with
:ref:`Copper Foil `
and
:ref:`Kapton `,
I searched for a strong thin material that I could use to strengthen the
plunger and close the crack(s).
.. image:: _images/Oral-B-Glide-Pro-Health-Advanced_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Oral-B-Glide-Pro-Health-Advanced.jpg
Glide Dental Floss is very thin, and
strong. It is made of a folded over tape of
`polytetrafluoroethylene `_
(Teflon)(PTFE). |br|
You can read much more about PTFE here |br|
`Comprehensive Guide on Polytetrafluoroethylene `_
Also shown is the :ref:`Scalpel ` and
a plunger.
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.. image:: _images/Glide_floss_thickness_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Glide_floss_thickness.jpg
Even folded over, it meets my requirement of being about 0.004" thick (0.1 mm).
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_prior_to_glide_area_trimming_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_prior_to_glide_area_trimming.jpg
The plunger prior to trimming the glide surfaces and then applying the Glide Floss.
(sorry for the two unrelated uses of the word *glide*)
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_showing_crack_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_showing_crack.jpg
Close up view of the crack in the plunger that causes it to stick in the black plastic housing
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_starting_the_trimming_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_starting_the_trimming.jpg
Start of trimming the 8 glide surfaces (2 per side). About 0.300" of the
surfaces need to be trimmed off. This takes time to do, and needs to be
done carefully, so as to not take off too much material.
:ref:`The metal insert ` that I
push into the end of the plunger, give it extra support while I am doing
the trimming, and the flaired end protects my fingers if I slip with the
scalpel. While trimming, I hold the plunger and insert with thumb and
first finger of one hand, and the scalpel in the other hand.
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_trimmings_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_trimmings.jpg
The plastic removed from the 8 glide surfaces.
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For the first step of working with the Glide Floss, some extra
preparation is needed. The glue that I have used is :ref:`Loctite 4014`.
As note in the 4014 section, I don't dispense this glue from the normal
dispensing tip. Instead, I dip a very fine probe into the bottle just
deep enough to get a small drop on the tip/side of the probe. I then
have a few seconds to place it on one of the two surfaces (the plunger)
that I am joining and then bring the second surface down onto the top of
the placed drop (in this case, it is the Glide Floss). This means I need
to prepare carefully so that the |Cyanoacrylate| adhesive does not sets
(actually |polymerizes|) before I have time to place the Glide Floss.
This means cleaning any debris leftover from the trimming task just
completed, and stretching out the Glide Floss and making sure there are
no twists in it. I have also found it handy to have a small pile of
strips of Laser Printer paper that are 1/8" x 2" (2mm x 50 mm). These can
be dipped into excess 4014, and will wick it up. Also, since the 4014
bottle will be open without its dispensing nozzle, take whatever
precautions you feel are appropriate to avoid knocking it over while
working on the plunger. When you are done, remember to screw the cap
back on tightly and return it to the fridge.
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_start_of_tape_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_start_of_tape.jpg
The start of the Glide Floss is glued to the corner that is furthest
away from the crack. This maximizes the amount of floss that will be
glued prior to getting to the crack and after it. I don't know if this
is critical, but it worked for me. So with everything ready, place a
small drop of 4014 on the plunger and then place the beginning of the
floss on top of the drop. Then press down with the probe or some other
tool so that the glue layer is as thin as possible.
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_1_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_1.jpg
After the the initial drop of 4014 has set, pull the floss taught around
the first 2 surfaces and then add a small drop of 4014 to the side of
the floss on these sides of the plunger. It should wick into the tiny
gap between the floss and the plunger. Wick up any excess 4014 with the
paper strips. Wait for the 4014 to set. The floss should now be well
attached to 2 sides of the plunger. These are sides 1 and 2.
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_2_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_2.jpg
Now wrap the floss around the plunger for 3 complete turns, leaving a
small gap between the floss so that we can apply more 4014 in a following
step.
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_3_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_3.jpg
This is side 3
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_4_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_4.jpg
When wrapping the floss on side 4, it must be done at an angle so that
on the following side 1, it does not overlap the floss that is already
there. Keeping the floss taught, wrap it around the end of the plunger
so that it does not unwind.
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Check the following:
- The floss is tight
- There is a gap between the turns of the floss on all 4 sides of the plunger
- The crack(s) has been closed up
Make adjustments as necessary, using a pointy probe. Now place a small
drop of 4014 into each of the gaps between each floss turn on all 4 sides.
You should see the liquid wick into the very small gaps under the floss.
If you accidentally add too much 4014, wick it up with the thin strips
of paper.
Allow a few minutes for all of the 4014 to set. Unwind the excess floss
at the bottom of the plunger and neatly cut the floss at the end of the
3 glued turns. You may need to add a small amount of 4041 to the end to
make sure it is attached.
.. image:: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_1_finished_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_1_finished.jpg
Side 1 finished
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_2_finished_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_2_finished.jpg
Side 2 finished
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_3_finished_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_3_finished.jpg
Side 3 finished
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_4_finished_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_3_wraps_of_tape_side_4_finished.jpg
Side 4 finished
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.. image:: _images/White_plunger_finished_end_view_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/White_plunger_finished_end_view.jpg
End view of the repaired plunger. The scalpel blade is pointing at the
corner with the crack.
Test fit the plunger by checking it slides easily in the black housing.
You can do this by sliding it in upside down. If it doesn't slide,
figure out what the problem is and adjust as necessary. If the issue is
that the glide surfaces weren't trimmed enough, you can unwind the floss
and peel off the 4014, which is quite brittle when set.
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Repairing with Plumbers Tape (unknown)
======================================
The common white plumber's tape that is wrapped around threaded pipes
prior to joining to matching fittings is made of the same material as
:ref:`Glide Floss `. As it is
typically 0.5" (12.7 mm) wide, maybe a single wrap of it, in combination
with :ref:`Loctite 4014` might be a solution. This would still require
the trimming of the :ref:`glide surfaces `. It would require a different strategy for the applying the
tape and the 4014. Maybe place a drop of 4014 on one of the sides of the
plunger, apply the tape and press it down to squeeze out as much glue as
possible due to the clearance requirements. Once it has set (maybe wait
a minute), pull the tape taught around the second surface and apply a
second drop of glue that should wick into the tiny gap between the tape
an the second surface. The tape would need to kept taught till the glue
had set on the second surface. This sounds like you will be needing 3 hands:
- One to hold the plunger
- One to pull on the tape
- One to apply the glue.
I don't have a good solution for this. The corner between surface 2 and
3 is the one with the crack (assuming you started in the right place).
This time, the pulling the tape taught for gluing to the third surface
is also closing up the crack, so this is probably the most critical
step. Finally the fourth surface can be taped and glued. As this tape is
thinner than Glide Floss, it may be possible to do a second layer.
If anyone tries this procedure and it turns out to be successful, please
take photos of how you did it (fourth hand?) and send it to me so I can
update this page.
Repairing with Brass Shim Girdle (success)
==========================================
This repair process is similar to the :ref:`Copper Foil ` except it works, it seems very reliable, and
does not depend on adhesives (except solder). A thin brass girdle that
is slipped over the damaged white plunger that has had the :ref:`glide
surfaces ` removed.
The girdles are made from strips of brass shim that is 0.0015" (0.038
mm) cut into strips 1.36" (34.5 mm) long by 0.220" ~ 0.250" (5.6 ~ 6.4
mm) wide. The ends of the strip of brass shim are joined with a lap
joint using solder.
You will also need a square cross section bar (or former) to get the
correct shape. It should have a cross-section of 0.320" x 0.320" (8.1 mm).
I made mine out of aluminum (aluminium), but it could be any material that
is solid, can tolerate soldering temperatures for a short time, and can't
be soldered to. Copper, brass, bronze, plastic, and glass are bad choices.
Aluminum, titanium, stainless steel, hardwood (maybe) are good choices.
The cross-section dimensions are critical, so target +/- 0.001".
When trimming the glide surface on the plunger, you must remove at least
as much as the width of your brass strips. To get the best lap joint I
found that using very thin solder helped. In my case I started with
solder that is 0.010" (0.25 mm) diameter, and using a roller and a hard
surface, I created solder tape that is about 0.020" (0.5 mm) wide and
only 0.004" (0.1 mm) thick. See the second picture below.
The black clamp you can see in several pictures is called a Tool Maker's
clamp, they are inexpensive and are available from many sources. Google
is your friend.
All the images on this page are thumbnails. Click to get higher resolution images.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_01_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_01.jpg
Getting ready to make some brass girdles. Brass shim stock, 0.0015"
thick cut to strips 0.22" wide by 1.36" long. Although this is metal, it
is thin enough to be cut with good quality scissors. The aluminum bar in
the bottom right of the picture is about 1" long and 0.320" x 0.320"
cross section. The aluminum in the bottom left of the picture is used in
the glide surface trimming operation. You will also need some white
plungers with a crack in one or more corners. Many HP-85 owners have a
good supply of these.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_02_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_02.jpg
Normal rosin core solder 0.010" diameter. Before and after rolling it flat.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_04_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_04.jpg
Take the brass shim strip and wrap it around the former very tightly,
with the overlap in the middle of one off the sides, not at an edge of
the former. Hold it in place using the machinist's clamp, exposing a bit
more than half of the width of the shim strip.
If you have never used a machinist's clamp, there are several ways to
use it, but the technique that is best for *this* application is using
only edge pressure at the tip. First adjust the rear spindle so that
does not engage the far jaw. Then adjust the Other spindle (nearer to
the tip) so that the if the jaws were parallel they would be slightly
wider apart than the objects being clamped. If the rear spindle is now
adjusted to create the clamping action, only the tip of the jaws will be
pressing down on the brass shim. This minimizes the heat sinking effect
of the clamp, which makes soldering easier.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_03_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_03.jpg
Another view of the clamped assembly prior to soldering.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_05_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_05.jpg
Place a piece of the solder tape into the lap joint then add some liquid
rosin flux (never acid flux). Adjust the position of the solder then
trim off any that is not within the joint, as we don't want too much
solder.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_06_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_06.jpg
Trimmed solder, ready to be soldered.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_07_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_07.jpg
Close up view of the trimmed solder, ready to be soldered.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_08_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_08.jpg
Solder the lap joint. Since the aluminum former is a good heat sink, a
fairly high wattage soldering iron may be needed, or one with very good
temperature control. If you are using a :ref:`Metcal `, a STTC-117 tip works great. The goal is a very flat joint. You
may need to press down on the joint with a :ref:`stainless steel probe
` while the solder is melted, and keep pressing until the
lap joint has cooled down.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_09_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_09.jpg
Now that half of the lap joint is complete, rotate the assembly in the
clamp to expose the unsoldered half, and repeat the process.
If you are unfamiliar with machinist's clamps, the right way to loosen
and re-tighten the clamp is to do it by only adjusting the rear spindle,
keeping the jaw spacing set by the other spindle unchanged.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_10_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_10.jpg
The finished lap joint. Time to clean off the excess flux and remove it
from the former.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_11_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_11.jpg
The finished brass shim girdle.
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_12_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_12.jpg
Now slide the girdle over the damaged plunger. I found it helpful to
first slide the girdle back onto the former (after all the flux has been
removed). This protects it from being crushed or deformed as you get
things lined up for moving it onto the plunger. I also found that
sometimes it helped to file a very small bevel on the plunger to help
getting started with sliding the girdle on. Once it has been slid onto
the plunger, you may optionally add a drop of :ref:`4014 glue. `
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.. image:: _images/Girdle_repair_13_thumb.jpg
:height: 200px
:align: left
:target: _images/Girdle_repair_13.jpg
The final result, looking at the nice sides without solder.
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.. |Keyboard Plunger Forum Posts| raw:: html
Link to related Forum Posts
.. |Cyanoacrylate| raw:: html
Cyanoacrylate
.. |polymerizes| raw:: html
polymerizes